17th July – 28th Sept 2008

Antique meets Contemporary

METRO
July 16, 2008

EXHIBITION
Now & Then: Antique Meets Contemporary

Jewellery has always been used to mark life's milestones. Though the symbolism of pieces such as love tokens remains unchanged, trends and techniques alter radically, and fashions vary; the Victorians decked themselves out in mourning jewellery but very few people now would consider wearing a brooch made of their relative's hair.

This group show of work that creates a link between traditional versions and radical new forms is a pairing between Kath Libbert Gallery, a place that showcases cutting-edge work by innovative contemporary makers, and Susan Rumfitt, a specialist in antique jewellery based in Harrogate.

There are four categories. InSentiment & Sex, a modem ring by Kelvin Birk with open, jewel-encrusted ends is as delicately beautiful as a heart pendant from 1840. The status symbols in Power & Politics are no less opulent for their streamlined contemporary forms, but Claudia Stebler's Bury Your X brooch - crossed porcelain bones entwined with pearls from the Memento Mori section - has more in common with Damien Hirst's aesthetic than the sentimental 1850 Forget Me Not brooch with which it is paired (both pieces pictured).

In all cases, the work is exquisite, but the humorous pieces in The Lighter Side beg the question: no matter what the historical period, what kind of joker wants to wear a cockerel tiepin, or a necklace in the shape of a bling-king penguin?
Tina Jackson

Until Sep 28, Kath Libbert Gallery, Salts Mill, Saltaire, Mon to Fri
10am to 5.30pm, Sat and Sun 10am to 6pm, free. Tel: 01274 599790. www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk

THE TIMES

July 15 2008
buy me
£995

This brooch, called Saturday, is a contemporary take on the Victorian locket. Made of gold and ebony, it contains a fine line drawing made out of the hair of the artist, Melanie Bilenker. It is in the show Now and Then, July 17-Sept 28, at Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery, Salts Mill, Saltaire, Bradford. 01274 599790; www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk

Derwent May

HOMES & ANTIQUES
August, 2008

EXHIBITIONS
NOW & THEN
17th July - 28th September

What does jewellery mean to you?
A fond memory, a display of wealth, a love token, or simply a bit of fun? This exhibition at Salts Mill in Shipley explores the many meanings of jewellery from antiquity to today. This necklace (right) is set with gems in green, white and violet, representing the Womens's Suffrage Movement colours and thought to stand for their political message: 'Give Women the Vote'.
Salts Mill, shipley, Saltaire West, Yorkshire. 01274 531163; saltsmill.org.uk

YORKSHIRE POST
July 25, 2008

Kitchen's everday heroes win medals by design
Robert Sutcliffe
THREE chefs at Salts Diner in Saltaire were given an unusual honour yesterday, Medals of Honour for Everyday Heroes. Paul Crowther has been second chef there for 13 years, Matthew Bracken, chef de partie has served five years David Moorhouse, has been chargrill chef for seven years.

The medals were made by designer Inger Margrethe Larsen who has always been fascinated by medals and feels everyone should have at least one. That is the idea behind her collection of finely worked plastic medals for the heroes and heroines of everday life.

She said: "I've always been fascinated by the way medals function as encouragement, a pat on the shoulder, but at the same time I find their solemn symbolism a little strange. That's why I consciously aimed for a humorous effect by twisting and enlarging my medals."

The three chefs were nominated for the outsize medals, made from pure white acrylic with coloured ribbons, by gallery owner Kath Libbert. She said she had chosen the recipients "basically for delicious food and delightful service. I have been at Salts myself for nearly 13 years and it has always been a pleasure to eat at The Diner."

The awards were made as the Now & Then exhibition - a collaboration between Kath's renowned contemporary jewellery gallery at Salts Mill in Saltaire and Harrogate- based antique jewellery specialist Susan Rumfitt gets into its stride
Now & Then places a collection of contemporary work by leading jewellers from around the world alongside antique pieces from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. It has four key themes: Sentiment and Sex, Power and Politics, The Lighter Side and Memento Mori - death and mourning.

Now & Then runs until September 28. Salts Mill is open daily lOam-5.30pm Monday to Friday and lOam-6pm Saturday and Sunday. For more details visit www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk

FINDINGS - The Association for Contemporary Jewellery's quarterly newsletter.
September 2008

Now & Then
Kath Libbert Jewellery, Salts Mill, SaItaire, 17 July-28 September
Reviewed by Carrie-Ann Black

When I read the press material on Kath Libbert's latest exhibition
I was immediately intrigued. A collaboration between Kath and antique jewellery specialist Susan Rumfitt, curated around four enduring themes: 'Sentiment and Sex', 'Power and Politics', 'The Lighter Side' and 'Memento Mori', seemed to my mind ambitious and challenging whilst simultaneously providing the foundation for a compelling and thought provoking exhibition. I certainly wasn't disappointed.

Considering the significance of jewellery throughout history we are acutely aware that it provides a wider platform than personal adornment. Jewellery in its function of being worn close to the body creates an intimate relationship, and this provides the terrain to explore issues and create dialogue. The artefact becomes a revealing object posing questions and stimulates response. This is exactly what Now & Then seeks to do; taking four potent themes within society and looking at how 16 leading contemporary jewellers and examples of antique jewellery respond. Thus it provides the viewer with an opportunity to consider and respond to the juxtapositions of this work.

One of the themes in which I saw particularly strong parallels was 'Memento Mori'. The theme of lost love and our responses to death has historically been a key theme within jewellery. I was particularly struck by on the work of Melanie Bilenker, which looked a first glance like simple outline images of an everyday scene, such as reading a book. It is only with the aid of a loupe that you can see the images are created with thousands of pieces of Melanie's own hairs, inlaid in resin! Bilenker's work encapsulates and cherishes the small daily occurrences of life in the same way that the Victorians used hair within jewellery as a means of remembering and commemorating past loves.

When viewing the pieces that embody contemporary work in conjunction with antique pieces you initially consider them to be the antithesis of each other. However whilst the designs remain historically specific the dialogues in which they look to engage remain the same. It was in this context that I considered the work of Silke Spitzer, whose work came into the 'Power and Politics' theme. Spitzer raises awareness of environmental issues in her use of sustainable materials and in the narrative of her work. For example her striking black crow earrings are designed to hang upside down, making comment of the impact that the humans are having on the natural world. These are 'protest jewellery' in the same way as suffagrette jewellery, which used precious stones to spell out the initials of Give Women the Vote, of which there was a stunning example in the exhibition, an amethyst, pearl and diamond necklace, which had green and white decorative enamel scrolling.

Something I found particularly enjoyable about this exhibition was how it wasn't simply looking at a specific medium or a singular theme, rather it was a treasure trove of discovery. The juxtaposition of the work was sometimes subtle and it was only armed with the informative exhibition notes that you fully understood the curators' decision-making. Indirectly Now & Then demands that the viewer engages with the exhibition on several levels from aesthetic to psychosocial and in doing so considers the rich history of the jewellery world.

Collectors Event There will be a special evening event to accompany the exhibition at Kath Libbert Jewellery, Salts Mill, Saltaire on Tuesday 16 September at 6-9pm. After a drinks reception Susan Rumfitt, co-curator of the exhibition, and Adam Paxon, jeweller, will talk about the work on show. Places are limited so booking is essential. To reserve your place please contact the gallery by 5 September on 01274 599790, or email: info@kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk.

Antiques Trade Gazette
19th July, 2008

Jewellery for now and then

AT the Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery from July 17 to September 28 there is a selling exhibition of themed contemporary jewellery called Now and Then! The gallery is at the Salts Mill, Saltaire, West Yorkshire, a building recently described as "a wonderful architectural setting that is obviously inspiring" .

Among many points of interest will be examples of Australian designer Laura Deakin's Dishonest Pearls - half circles made from wood filler into which a pearl is pushed, then removed, leaving the lustre lining the 'shell-shaped' beads.

There will also be many examples of the real things, of course. Shown above is jewellery expert Susan Rumfitt of the Antiques Roadshow, examining a Victorian pearl necklace with an enamel and diamond clasp c.1860.
Tel: 01274 599790

LEEDS GUIDE
6th August, 2008
Art & Museums

Now & Then
Gems past and present
at Kath Libbert Jewellery

Whether it’s because I’m a girl or because I have a child-like preoccupation with all things that shine and sparkle, jewellery has always been a fascination. It’s an art form that has been around for nearly as long as humankind, its styles and uses changing and developing through the centuries.
Once worn to show wealth and status as well as for pinning clothes and for cherishing loved ones, these days in the west it is largely decorative.
Despite these changes, many of the inspirations behind jewellery designs have remained constant throughout the years and these themes are explored at the Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery at Salts Mill this summer.
The exhibition, Now & Then, features the work of 16 leading contemporary designers from around the world, many making their UK debut. With help from the BBC’s ‘Antiques Roadshow’ jewellery expert and valuer Susan Rumfitt, the gallery has organised this contemporary work alongside remarkable pieces from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries.
The themes under which the work was curated include ‘Sentiment and Sex’, ‘Power and Politics’, ‘The Lighter Side’ and ‘Memento Mori’ (death and mourning).
One standout piece is a striking ring by Kelvin J Birk called ‘Two-Claw Cluster’ in the ‘Sentiment and Sex’ section.
Made from 22ct gold, it is bright and sumptuously yellow in colour but not a complete circle. Instead, it twists into a horseshoe shape that culminates in beautiful branch-like ends clustered with rubies and pink agate.
This is set alongside ‘Regard’ (c. 1840), a striking gold heart pendant set with ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst and diamond, which would be the perfect stowaway for a stolen lock of hair.
Other artists exhibiting include Adam Paxon, Georg Dobler, Laura Deakin, Ruudt Peters Inger Larsen, Susan Matsche, Felieke van der Leest (who created that rather fetching penguin) and Emily Bullock.
Until 28th September, Kath Libbert Jewellery, Salts Mill, Saltaire
AC

digyorkshire
July, 2008

JEWELLERY’S HIDDEN LANGUAGE

Put together by Antiques Roadshow expert Susan Rumfitt and Kath Libbert, Now and Then emphasises jewellery’s role not just as luxury object but as symbol of something of far greater significance.

The nation may have enjoyed nearly 30 years’ worth of guffawing at the constipated responses of greedy heirloom-floggers to low valuations given them by the experts on the Antiques Roadshow, but are we as appreciative of antiques as we might be? Widely manufactured ceramic teapots are one thing – and it is a rare person that can truly appreciate those – but would we be more interested in, say, unique jewellery pieces if we knew a little more about them?

‘What we’re trying to bring out in this exhibition’ explains Harrogate-based Susan Rumfitt, a zephyr quietly blowing the cobwebs from the musty typecast of the antiques professional, ‘is why certain pieces of jewellery were or are worn, and what those pieces can symbolise, in that way broadening minds a little’.

‘Cameos’ she continues ‘were worn during the Renaissance very much as a symbol of wealth, and knights were known to wear natural pearls into battle, but jewellery was worn for other purposes, too, such as to signify betrothal or mourning’. Then jewellery isn’t just something for the elite and the elite only to appreciate? ‘No, and we want to show that. You can appreciate jewellery without having to buy it.’ Just as you can a painting or piece of sculpture.

Based around four key themes – Sentiment and Sex, Power and Politics, The Lighter Side and Memento Mori (death and mourning) - the exhibition at The Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery at Salts Mill, Saltaire includes pieces from 15 of the world’s very best contemporary makers - not least among them Adam Paxon, winner of the £30,000 2007 Jerwood Arts Prize for jewellery – and exquisite antique jewellery dating from 1800 to 1940.

Seductive or articulate in the language of love - with all its variables - Paxon’s bold organic forms worn in unusual ways communicate Sentiment and Sex. Georgian skull rings and more contemporary, playful pieces, such as Claudia Stebler's ‘Bury Your X’ brooch encapsulate the Memento Mori theme. The Lighter Side of Life is represented by, for instance, an 1890 diamond-set tie pin or by Felieke van der Leest’s whacky zoo animals in crotcheted clothing, and whereas Power is represented by the pearls that it was at during the Renaissance decreed only nobility could wear, Politics are given overt reference in anti-war medals loaned by one of the USA’s most prestigious jewellery galleries, Velvet da Vinci.

With talks delivered by the unfailingly affable Susan Rumfitt and Adam Paxon to further enrich it, this exhibition is sure to make most people think about jewellery in an entirely different way than they did before.

Rory ffoulkes

YORKSHIRE LIFE
AUGUST, 2008

Art & Exhibitions

Now and then

For another take on vinatage see contemporary jewellery by leading designers from around the world alongside antique pieces from the past at Salts Mill, Saltaire. The latest Kath Libbert Jewellery exhibition there has been put together with input from antique jewellery specialist Susan Rumfitt, valuer on the BBC's Antiques Roadshow and lecturer for the National Association of Decorative Fine Arts Societies.

For more information about the exhibition and talks and events surrounding it, see www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk.

Justine Brooks

METRO
August 14, 2008

EXHIBITION REVIEW
Now & Then

Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery's current exhibition, which explores the differences and similarities between antique and contemporary jewellery, is split into four sections: Sentiment & Sex; Memento Mori; Power & Politics and The Lighter Side. These sections are designed to explore how we use accessories to commemorate special events and how jewellery-makers' methods, materials and motives have changed during the past 300 years.

The Memento Mori section is the most consistent group in terms of quality and message, and features some gorgeous pieces of Victoriana, including a ring made from amethyst, chrysolite and human hair. This piece, a portable shrine to a lost loved one, is much more powerful than its contemporary counterparts, even Claudia Stebler's brilliant tongue-in-cheek ceramic and pearl brooch Bury Your X.

The jokey nature of Stebler's piece, along with Found Objects, Susan Osbom's clever comment on the search for weapons of mass destruction, is the inherent problem with the more recent works in the show. It feels like the contemporary jewellers featured in Now & Then are scared of creating an obviously poignant piece, choosing to hide any true emotion behind a pithy title or gag. Unfortunately, a joke only serves to make the pieces, including Emperor Penguin Freddie with Polar Bear Claw Necklace (pictured), by Felieke Van Der Leest,'seem throwaway.
It's hard to imagine that in 300 years' time they'll be looked at with the same fondness as their antique counterparts.
Marie-Claire Daly

Until Sep 28, Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery, Salts Mill, Saltaire, Bradford, Mon to Fri 10am to 5.30pm,
Sat and Sun Wam to 6pm, free.
Tel: 01274 599790. www.kathlibbertjeweliery.co.uk

CRAFTS COUNCIL
August, 2008

FEATURED MAKERS

Kath Libbert

From her beginnings as a Saturday trader at Leeds Corn Exchange to being one of the lead speakers at Origin last year, Kath Libbert has certainly changed her life around. Previously an NHS employee, Libbert now runs one of Britain's leading galleries - The Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery - specialising solely in jewellery, silver and metal smithing. Based in the idyllic setting of Salt Mills in West Yorkshire since 1996, Libbert's experience in promoting, exhibiting and selling contemporary jewellery gave her an authoritative role at last years' Origin Retailers Day. During this talk she focused on her professional role representing more than seventy established and emerging artists and makers, including a wide range of British and some International artists. According to Libbert, 'Origin is great when you're thinking about curating. You can collect people there because it's a great place to meet people.' Her jewellery is, she likes to say, wearable art - each object has to be crafted exquisitely - and Origin is one of the best places in the UK to find it.

Yet it is Libbert's exhibition, Now and Then, which is presently occupying much of her time. A collaboration with Susan Rumfitt - of Antique Road Show fame - Now and Then explores four central themes: Power and Politics, Sentiment and Sex, Memento Mori, and the Lighter Side. The exhibition includes new work by Jerwood Applied Arts joint winner Adam Paxon, as well as fine antique jewellery from 1800-1950. Highlights include 'Regard' brooches and rings which, by using a sequence of Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby and Diamond, demonstrate the visual language used by the Victorians to communicate sentiment. Others included in the show will be well-known Dutch jeweller Ruudt Peters, Danish designer Inger Larsen, and ethical designer Silke Spitzer. With such a range of interesting makers Now and Then promises to be remarkable exhibition - a far cry from such humble beginnings on a market stall in Leeds.

The exhibition opened on the 17th of July, and will include Adam Paxon discussing his work at a special Collectors' Event on the 16th of September, alongside Susan Rumfitt.

Now & Then

Curiouser and Curiouser

Something Old, Something New