Natural Histrionics

An International Art Jewellery Exhibition Inspired by Nature
11th July - 29th Sept 2013

Culture Vulture: On Our Radar: Natural Histrionics at Salts Mill

THE CULTURE VULTURE
Friday July 8th, 2011
Nathalie Blonder takes a trip to Saltaire for some Natural Histrionics

When I heard about the Natural Histrionics exhibition taking place at Salts Mill, I wasn’t sure what to expect. The first word of the title definitely implies a nature theme – either use of such materials or based around natural formations. On the other hand, the ‘histrionics’ element led me to believe that it was orientated around futuristic technology … then I opened the dictionary and found out that the word actually means ‘Excessively dramatic or emotional’. The collection as curator Kath Libbert described it is ‘Jewellery designed with traditional materials but used in untraditional ways’, and she wasn’t kidding.

I visited the gallery on the evening of its opening and initially highly underestimated the collection due to the humble handful of display cabinets on display. However, as I was lucky enough to interview the brains behind the operation I was astonished to hear about the sheer depth of story behind each individual piece and the contributors that brought them to life. In March of this year, Kath attended a jewellery convention in Munich where she was positively overwhelmed by the amount of beauty and original design she found herself immersed in. It was there that she got the idea to put together the Natural Histrionics exhibition based on a number of jewellers’ unique outlook on nature.
For example, the first designer’s work that I got to see was that of Anja Eichler whose collection of pieces formed using quail eggs and precious metals is charming. With these earrings, brooches, and necklaces made from a medium of such fragility, she reflects the human condition by showing that despite falling and cracking under pressure, we as people are able to rise up again, stronger and more beautiful.

Italian concept artist Konrad Laimer did not have any message in mind when he made his collection out of goat horn and Chamoir. A man living in the Alps, he felt inspired to use the materials he found around him and form them into a collection of his own interpretation. What I love about Laimer’s collection is the splash of colour he features in each of his pieces, along with a silver finish – the combination of these elements perfectly embodies elegance and refinement.

Another favourite of mine was the work of Dutch genius, Nel Linssen, who has produced art that pushes the boundaries of the imagination by combining two things only: mathematics and plastic-reinforced paper. In the hands of the wearer, necklaces become fluid and snake-like, embodying natural formations found amongst fauna and flora. When viewed close up it is impossible to distinguish the intricacy, each tiny fold in harmony with its neighbour. I suppose it could be described as origami 2.0.

Natural Histrionics is part of Kath Libbert’s Jewellery Gallery and can be found on the second floor of Salts Mill, through the vast bookshop and adjacent to the Diner. It will be running until the 29th of September and I highly recommend it to anyone who considers themselves a fan of the weird and wonderful. One of the best parts of this exhibition is the ‘stage’ in the corner where visitors are encouraged to try on the various pieces on display and have their picture taken. As well as this, all are given the opportunity to become part of the exhibition itself by starring in a short film, donning some finery and saying what you like about it. All the films are then compiled and displayed on the monitor within the gallery, adding just that little bit more life to the already animated collection.

For more information and access to Kath Libbert’s online catalogue, check out www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk

Findings: The Magazine of the Association For Contemporary Jewellery

FINDINGS
Autumn 2013
EXHIBITION REVIEWS
NATURAL HISTRIONICS
Rachael Brame gets close to some wonderful works

Situated in the World Heritage Site of Saltaire is the Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery, probably the most prominent gallery in the North of England for bringing contemporary art jewellery to public attention.

As a result of Kath's recent trip to Schmuck, 'Natural Histrionics'is an accumulation of international jewellery artists with works inspired by nature and organic materials. Her careful selective process made sure all work on display was distinctive, unique and responded to the theme in a variety of ways. Some of the most visually striking pieces on display were those from German jewellery artist, Stephanie Hensle, whose Fox Fur neckpiece stole the show. Processes usually used for mass production enabled thousands of etched and stamped brass segments to be painstakingly assembled to construct this one-off piece. Her 'The Catch' and 'Dead Bird' necklaces from the same collection were also presented and delivered the same level of accuracy and laborious workmanship that makes the collection so exquisite.

Alongside Stephanie was South Korean artist Hyorim Lee whose incredibly tactile leather pieces had my admiration. In delectable colour palettes, her feathered neckpieces and brooches made me feel as though I was sprouting wings! Jie Suns 'Big Fish' brooch made from hand carved wood and lacquer provoked a similar connection with the wearer, as it looks to swim into the body.

As well as the visual representations of nature, works inspired by natural materials were an opulent sensory experience. Anja Eichler's use of quail eggs, Konrad Laimer's goat horn and Susanne Elstner's charcoal jewellery reinforced my belief that unconventional materials can be just as, if not more, beautiful and imaginative than gemstones and precious metals.

Dorit Schubert with her mind-bogglingly intricate floral jewellery inspired by traditional German lace-making techniques had me in awe, as did the work of award-winning jewellery artist Nel Linssen with her superbly refined paper folding techniques.

The exceptionality of Kath's exhibitions is the way in which she makes art jewellery accessible and desirable to the general public, as well as collectors and enthusiasts. The 'Histrionics' part of the exhibition title is a clever play on words referencing the drama and theatrical element of the show; where the public is asked to try on a piece, and declaim their enthusiasm for it in a video compilation which is then played throughout. For me, this is such an important part of bringing contemporary jewellery to the wider audience, helping the public to overcome their reservations and connect to the work in a relaxed and humorous environment. Kath Libbert fully understands that art jewellery must be taken out from behind the glass and worn on the body to fully understand and appreciate the craftsmanship of the piece and design methodology of the maker.

Image caption: Stephanie Hensel, Fox Fur Necklace, 2012. Etched brass. Photo: Janusch Tschech