Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery

METRO
July 16, 2008

EXHIBITION
Now & Then: Antique Meets Contemporary

Jewellery has always been used to mark life's milestones. Though the symbolism of pieces such as love tokens remains unchanged, trends and techniques alter radically, and fashions vary; the Victorians decked themselves out in mourning jewellery but very few people now would consider wearing a brooch made of their relative's hair.
This group show of work that creates a link between traditional versions and radical new forms is a pairing between Kath Libbert Gallery, a place that showcases cutting-edge work by innovative contemporary makers, and Susan Rumfitt, a specialist in antique jewellery based in Harrogate.
There are four categories. InSentiment & Sex, a modem ring by Kelvin Birk with open, jewel-encrusted ends is as delicately beautiful as a heart pendant from 1840. The status symbols in Power & Politics are no less opulent for their streamlined contemporary forms, but Claudia Stebler's Bury Your X brooch - crossed porcelain bones entwined with pearls from the Memento Mori section - has more in common with Damien Hirst's
aesthetic than the sentimental 1850 Forget Me Not brooch with which it is paired (both pieces pictured).
In all cases, the work is exquisite, but the humorous pieces in The Lighter Side beg the question: no matter what the historical period, what kind of joker wants to wear a cockerel tiepin, or a necklace in the shape of a bling-king penguin?
Tina Jackson

Until Sep 28, Kath Libbert Gallery, Salts Mill, Saltaire, Mon to Fri
10am to 5.30pm, Sat and Sun 10am to 6pm, free. Tel: 01274 599790. www.kathlibbertjewellery.co.uk